Translated by
Roberta HERRERA
Published
November 25, 2024
Photography returns to the Muelle de Batería in A Coruña, Spain. Following three exhibitions dedicated to iconic fashion industry figures such as Peter Lindbergh, Steven Meisel, and Helmut Newton, the Marta Ortega Foundation (MOP), established in 2022, has reaffirmed its commitment to photography and fashion with a comprehensive exhibition celebrating American photographer Irving Penn. Opened to the public on Saturday, November 23, the showcase marks the most extensive retrospective of the artist’s work ever presented.
Initially created to commemorate the 2017 centenary of Penn’s birth, the exhibition entitled “Irving Penn: Centennial” was first shown at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. It has since toured internationally to cities including Paris, Berlin, San Francisco, and São Paulo. Its arrival in A Coruña, home to Inditex’s headquarters, marks the final stage of this monumental project.
For the Marta Ortega Foundation, founded by the chairwoman of Inditex, hosting this exhibition in A Coruña is a proud moment and a continuation of its mission to promote photography, a commitment established two years ago.
“Irving Penn: Centennial” is being held in an industrial-style venue enhanced with an architectural installation specifically designed for the occasion. Visitors can browse more than 160 photographs alongside unique artefacts, including the iconic backdrop Penn used in his studio. The exhibition offers a comprehensive view of the photographer’s multifaceted career, from still lifes and floral compositions to portraits of renowned cultural figures.
The exhibition features portraits of luminaries such as Marlene Dietrich, Audrey Hepburn, Gianni Versace, Issey Miyake, Yves Saint Laurent, Truman Capote, Joan Didion, Salvador Dalí, Zaha Hadid, and Richard Avedon. True to Penn’s democratic vision, it also includes portraits of everyday people captured during his travels.
“Irving Penn worked at Vogue with the clear understanding that he was an artist,” said Jeff L. Rosenheim, the exhibition’s curator, adding that the showcase includes “some of the most beautiful objects in the history of photography and handmade prints.” Tom Penn, executive director of the Irving Penn Foundation and the photographer’s son, reflected on his father’s dedication to his craft, noting that Penn’s meticulous printing techniques often required over 50 hours of work. “The decline of magazines motivated my father to prove how photography could achieve extraordinary quality,” he remarked.
Marta Ortega celebrated the exhibition’s opening, describing it as an honour to host such an important showcase in A Coruña. “Irving Penn’s image-making is exemplary. The ordinary becomes extraordinary, revealing the profound beauty of simplicity. His work captures more than moments in time—it captures the essence of his subjects, inviting us to see the world differently,” she said. Ortega also reiterated the Foundation’s aim to present the finest fashion photography exhibitions while announcing the publication of an exclusive Spanish-language exhibition catalogue, featuring nearly 300 images from the artist.
Ahead of its public opening, the Foundation hosted a private preview event on November 20, attended by an array of celebrities and industry figures. Among the guests were supermodels Linda Evangelista, Malgosia Bela, and Eugenia Silva; Pierpaolo Piccioli, former creative director of Valentino; Alaïa designer Pieter Mulier; Balenciaga creative director Demna Gvasalia; stylist Ludivine Poiblanc; and Saint Laurent CEO Cédric Charbit.
The event turned A Coruña into a glittering international red carpet, sparking excitement among locals who gathered outside the NH Collection Finisterre hotel, where many of the guests were staying.
Beyond the glamour, the Marta Ortega Foundation’s work significantly elevates A Coruña’s profile as a hub for culture and fashion. Exhibitions such as “Peter Lindbergh: Untold Stories”, “Steven Meisel 1993: A Year in Photographs”, and “Helmut Newton: Fact & Fiction” have cemented the city’s reputation for hosting major artistic events, often bringing exhibitions to a wider audience outside traditional cultural capitals. Much like Inditex’s headquarters in Arteixo serve as a corporate anchor, the Foundation’s activities assert its deep connection to Galicia while promoting international outreach.
Admission to “Irving Penn: Centennial” is free, with the exhibition running daily until May 1, 2025. Proceeds from merchandise sales—including posters, postcards, notebooks, and sweatshirts—will support the Foundation’s “Future Stories” initiative, aimed at nurturing young artistic talent. Additionally, the Foundation has revamped its fashion, art, and design bookstore housed in the venue’s spiral-designed silo, which also includes a small café for visitors.
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