Finland is famous for many things; having the world’s best education system and the cleanest air, as well as maintaining the title of the happiest country in the world for seven years running.

The capital, Helsinki is renowned for its sauna culture, but the country’s second city, Tampere, is the one that’s not to be missed.

Regarded as another global landmark, “the sauna capital of the world“, Tampere is a must-visit destination for those seeking a taste of true Nordic-style relaxation.

It’s located in the southern part of the sparse landscape, which boasts 75 percent forests and lakes and is a comfortable two-hour train journey from Helsinki.

On a recent visit to the destination, branded “the Manchester of Finland”, I was blown away by the unique – and deeply soothing – way of life enjoyed by locals.

What to do in Tampere

Tampere boasts incredible views thanks to its location on a narrow isthmus between two great lakes: Näsijärvi and Lake Pyhäjärvi. But it is the proximity to Tampere’s industrial centre that makes this place so enticing.

In the heart of the city, known as the Finlayson area, you’ll find red brick buildings which embody a long history of manufacturing. Its legacy is centred around the Finlayson cotton factory, which was established in 1820. The area is near the Tammerkoski rapids, which power some of the buildings, and became the core of Tampere around which the modern city was built.

The unique area comprises Talliphia Stable Yards, which are home to a fascinating chocolate shop branded the “happiest place on Earth” by one of its smiley chocolatiers; the Finlayson Art Area, which is a great summer attraction, and the Himmelblau Printmaking Studio.

Just a stone’s throw away near the tram line and city hall you’ll find a plethora of shops, bars and restaurants, and Tampere Market Hall – a vibrant indoor market that dates back to 1901. It’s one of the most cherished landmarks in the city filled with vendors and stalls selling local delicacies like traditional black sausage, Finnish cheese, and chocolate.

It’s the perfect place to experience the local culinary culture, perhaps at the Restaurant 4 Seasons, which offers a blend of French cuisine with Finnish influence, resulting in mouth-watering dishes and some whacky flavour combinations (think bacon and maple syrup bread pudding).

This part of the city is the perfect sightseeing spot and home to equally enticing accommodation, including the stunning Radisson Blu Grand Hotel Tammer, where I stayed myself. Reminiscent of something out of a Wes Anderson film, the hotel has a striking blend of historic charm and modern luxury. 

Hotel guests can enjoy a traditional sauna here which is separated by gender and bookable for private sessions (30 Euros per hour). But with 50 public saunas to enjoy across the city, you’re never too far from one.

Saunas in Tampere

For a modern Finnish sauna experience, head to Saunaravintola Kuuma. The riverside location houses an idyllic restaurant, right in the middle of the city, plus a social, cosy “living room for everybody” in a New-Nordic style. 

There are two mixed saunas – a traditional wood-heated sauna and a modern smoke sauna, which gives experienced visitors a chance to step it up a notch. Sweaty sessions are broken up by a dip in the river outside, which has a squared-off section for customers to cool off while looking at the cityscape which includes the Nokia Theatre.

This is commonplace for other Tampere restaurants, including Restaurant Periscope, found at the top of the Olympia Square shopping centre building.

Boasting uninterrupted views over the city (which are breathtaking at sunset), the restaurant has a trendy food culture with ready-made tasting menus and local delicacies. It even has a rooftop terrace sauna which overlooks Lake Pyhäjärvi.

During my stay, I visited the legendary folk sauna Rauhaniemi, located on a scenic lakefront surrounded by pine forests. Sauna-goers can swim in the ice-cold lake, even when it’s frozen in winter, which has been a tradition at Rauhaniemi since 1929.

The first sauna was built at this folk spa in 1957 and is a place for everyone to experience Finnish public sauna culture at its best. It even has a sauna temple, which resembles a tee-pee tent and allows visitors to enjoy a sauna session in complete silence and darkness; with the only light from the wood-fired stoves inside.

Both saunas are easily reachable on foot, as is most of Tampere. The outskirts of the city are walkable from the centre in 15 minutes or less, but there’s plenty of public transport including trams and buses to help you get around.

Regardless of the mode of transport, you’re bound to pass acres of tall Pine trees which can be found in dense forest clusters, along with leafy green public parks which break up the industrial parts of Tampere’s city centre. There are plenty of coffee spots which sell delicious cinnamon buns and cardamom doughnuts, known as “munkki”, to grab as a quick snack en route too.