It was getting darker and darker as I squeezed through the claustrophobic tunnel that would lead us inside a long, forgotten silver mine.

As the light faded and the smell of dank underground water filled the air, I thought, ‘What have I gotten myself into this time?’

The tunnel in question is a manmade entrance to Cwmystwyth Mines, one of the most significant silver mining sites in the Cambrian Mountains in Wales.

After mining ceased, the site became derelict, and land ownership passed to the Crown Estate.

These hidden mines are situated in a remote valley in Mid Wales, approximately 10 miles southeast of Aberystwyth, along the River Ystwyth.

The whole area is full of history, with mining activities dating back over 4,000 years, making it one of Britain’s earliest known mining sites.

According to Amgueddfa Cymru — National Museum Wales, silver was extracted in great quantity during the 16th and 17th centuries from the richly argentiferous lead ores of central Wales.

A mint was also established at Aberystwyth Castle to strike coins made from Welsh silver.

In 2012, considerable money was spent on safety and consolidation work before the whole site was transferred to the Cambrian Mines Trust.

While the historic mines have long been abandoned by miners, you can still explore the eerie silver mines, but only if you know knowledgeable locals who can safely take you underground and into the passages that time forgot.

This isn’t like Big Pit National Coal Museum. There’s no car park, gift shop, toilets, or cafe to be found here. You must find someone who knows the area and the mines to safely guide you.

Welsh silver mines

I was introduced to local mining expert Ioan, who took me on a thrilling adventure into the untouched and dark passages and an unspoilt landscape of silver, lead, copper and zinc mines, some of which date back over 4,000 years.

The tour begins by crawling through a modern access pipe and then wading through a short distance of knee-deep water, illuminated only by a head torch, before reaching a drier part of the mine.

As we emerged from the other side of the tunnel, we were totally in the dark. My guide, Ioan, led us while explaining the working conditions, lives, and harsh conditions the former mining communities might have faced.

The passage through the spooky mine involves uphill climbs and a short crawl through the dark, eerie caverns where water drips from the ceiling.

As you move deeper into the dark, winding tunnels, the world outside fades away, leaving only the cold, damp embrace of the earth. The passageways, once alive with the echoes of miners’ picks and shovels, now lie in eerie silence, save for the occasional drip of water echoing through the caverns.

It’s surreal to wander around the underground mine workings, knowing that they have remained untouched since the departure of the last miners.

Each step stirs up centuries-old dust, and the smell of wet stone and ancient minerals fills your nostrils. It’s a stark reminder of the thousands who toiled here in the belly of the mountain.

Exploring an abandoned Welsh mine

As you progress through the rough rock walls of the mine, you can see the abandoned artefacts and relics from the 19th and 20th centuries that were left behind, as if the miners quickly departed, never to look back into those pitch-dark caverns.

Trams, inclines, and wooden ore chutes are frozen in time here, left to the gloom of the mine, only glimpsed by adventurous underground explorers shining a torch into the stale air.

As we walked, my flashlight flickered against the jagged walls, casting long, ominous shadows across the rough-hewn rock, illuminating footprints, tools, old shoes, and clothing.

The flicker of light also revealed abandoned shafts plunging into inky blackness, each a potential pitfall, a chilling reminder of the dangers lurking in these forgotten depths. The ground beneath my feet suddenly felt uneven and treacherous, slick with moisture and loose stones that shifted ominously with every step.

Exploring a remote mine is not for the easily spooked, and I was soon starting to lose my nerve. Luckily, Ioan distracted me from the creepy caverns and explained the mines’ long history as we felt our way through the dark.

Cwmystwyth Mines history

The primary mineral extracted at Cwmystwyth was lead, although other minerals such as zinc, silver, and copper were also mined here in smaller quantities.

Mining activity at Cwmystwyth dates back to the Bronze Age, as evidenced by archaeological findings such as primitive stone tools.

However, significant developments in the mining industry at Cwmystwyth occurred during the Roman period, with further expansion during the medieval period under the ownership of Welsh princes and, later, Norman lords.

By the 19th century, the mines reached their peak of productivity, particularly during the Industrial Revolution, when advances in mining technology and transportation greatly enhanced extraction and processing capabilities.

The Cwmystwyth Mines were worked intensively throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. During this time, the mines produced large quantities of lead and silver, with some records indicating that Cwmystwyth was one of Wales’s most productive lead mines.

The lead extracted from these mines was primarily used for roofing, piping, and other construction purposes. Silver was a valuable by-product that contributed to the mines’ profitability.

Despite its historical productivity, the Cwmystwyth Mines experienced periods of decline, mainly due to fluctuations in metal prices and competition from other mining regions.

By the early 20th century, the mines were no longer economically viable, and operations gradually ceased, marking the end of an era for one of Wales’ most significant mining sites.

The abandonment of the mines left behind a landscape marked by spoil heaps ruined buildings, and adits (horizontal mine entrances) that still bear witness to the extensive mining activities that once dominated the area.

Visiting Welsh mines

Today, the Cwmystwyth Mines are a site of historical and geological interest. The remnants of the mining operations, including the old mine buildings, machinery, and extensive network of tunnels, are still visible and have become a focus for conservation efforts.

Adventurous visitors can explore the mines’ remains and learn about the region’s rich mining heritage.

However, caution is strongly advised due to the potential hazards associated with old mine workings, such as unstable ground and dangerous open shafts.

After spending several hours underground, it was time to come up for some air and, frankly, a massive pub lunch.

While I enjoyed exploring an essential part of Welsh heritage, I couldn’t shake the feeling that I wasn’t entirely alone in the subterranean world.

It was as if the mine was watching, waiting, its dark corners hiding secrets long forgotten by time. Clearly, I have watched far too many episodes of Stranger Things for my own good.

Netflix-induced Paranoia aside, venturing into abandoned mines by torchlight with no one else around was a surreal experience, unlike anything else I’ve experienced in Wales, even if I came away a little more afraid of the dark.

If you want an underground adventure, contact the Cambrian Mountains initiative to learn more about exploring silver mines and incredible landscapes and plan your next thrilling adventure in Wales.