Tolu Coker (quite literally) took audiences behind the scenes. Recreating her studio for the last showing on Sunday evening, she turned the presentation space into an intimate, immersive experience. Home videos of her design team at the cutting desk and sewing machine played in the background while a live band set the mood with sultry jazz. Models moved fluidly through the space, bringing the collection to life in an environment that felt deeply personal and reflective of Coker’s community-driven creative process.

Meanwhile, Kazna Asker transformed the room at 180 Strand into a bustling souk, bringing in vendors from Sheffield (who are local to Asker’s studio) to sell jewellery and brand merch. Asker has spent the past few seasons carving a name for herself, speaking out about global injustices and championing human connection. This season, her presentation was an ode to the community that surrounds her.

Shelves stacked with Asker’s well-thumbed reference books and low-cushion seating encouraged guests to sit, reflect and engage. Incense filled the air, and attendees were invited to snack on plump Palestinian dates and sip hot tea while wandering the space.

On the final day of fashion week, Central Saint Martins graduate Yaku Stapleton also reimagined the show format. At the entrance, guests received leather-bound passports, which could be stamped as they passed through different installations. Known for his take on Afrofuturism, Stapleton’s latest collection unfolded like a storybook. Each ‘chapter’ reimagined a different family member, shaped by the fantasy worlds he grew up exploring in video games. The collection wasn’t just a personal reflection: it spoke to broader ideas about identity, history and the way we navigate the world.

Last season, Paolo Carzana’s show in his Hackney back garden left editors in tears. This time, he chose Clerkenwell’s Holy Tavern for an intimate presentation where the audience was within touching distance of his whimsical collection. His signature natural dyeing techniques came to life in the dimly lit space, with turmeric yellows and madder pinks glowing against the dark winter evening. Through twists, knots and drapes – with minimal use of a sewing machine – Carzana’s work felt like a quiet rebellion against the ongoing struggles young designers face. Making something out of nothing, he reaffirmed his commitment to doing things absolutely on his own terms.

While many designers stepped away from the runway, ELLE’s Generation Next Prize Winner, Pauline Dujancourt, embraced it for her first live show. The French-born, London-based designer’s wispy handmade pieces, crafted in close collaboration with artisans in Peru, were paired with slouchy knitwear and structured tailoring. ‘I wanted to try something new this season and take the brand into new territory,’ said Dujancourt after the show. Bows, blooms and ethereal trims fluttered down the runway and the designer’s clothes came to life in motion. Committed to craft, her slow approach to design is gaining momentum, proving that handwork and heritage has a vital place in London fashion.

Fledging designers fresh out of Central Saint Martins also delivered standout collections. William Palmer, who was one of two winners of the annual L’Oréal Professionnel Creative and Young Talent Award, offered a playful critique of British masculinity, drawing inspiration from greasy spoon cafés and lad culture. His collection featured Harrington jackets, checkered shirting fabrics and upcycled tea towels, creating a nostalgic yet subversive take on everyday British style.

Petra Fagerström, the second L’Oréal Award winner, explored the intersection of technology and memory in her graduate collection, examining how AI might distort memories. She showed a series of garments informed by the conservative dress codes of the past but glitched with illusion-like pleating and digital distortions.

This season was a testament to what makes London fashion so special. Beyond the spectacle of shows, storytelling, innovation and a deep commitment to craft are what should be celebrated. And in a city where teacup hats, real-life video game characters and centuries-old craft techniques can coexist, creativity isn’t just encouraged – it’s limitless.

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