The Denim Première Vision show saw a very satisfactory session in Milan, especially given today’s prevailingly gloomy economic climate. Denim industry players from around the world gathered at the vast Superstudio Più venue in south Milan, discussing the latest topics and placing plenty of orders in a vibrant atmosphere. The show’s 71 exhibitors, including fabric producers, finishers and assorted suppliers from 14 countries, presented their SS26 collections to a large international audience, from luxury labels like Dior, Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton and others, to high-end and mid-market brands, mass-market giants, and whole classes of local fashion students keen to familiarise themselves with the denim industry.

“The overall mood was extremely positive and reassuring. Plenty of business was done at this edition, and there was much hard work in the stands. I was surprised by the atmosphere and the really positive mindset,” said Florence Rousson, CEO of show organiser Première Vision. “Given the current troubled climate, and the lack of clarity on when the crisis will end, people came here to start conversations and promote new synergies. Visitor attendance was satisfactory in terms of numbers and professional profiles. What matters to us in relation to the broader context is to provide quality, especially through our exhibitors, through a diverse range of products, and the interest generated by our conferences,” she added.

Once again, Denim PV was able to act as a catalyst between different trends, styles and innovations, while successfully testing new initiatives. For example, the newly introduced ‘pitch zone’, enabling exhibitors to publicly showcase their new manufacturing processes and technologies, presenting their company and products. It was a big success, with more than a dozen speakers.

As always, the ‘Forum’ trend section drew a crowd. Among the innovations presented, the latest developments in sustainability, especially with regards to circularity, traceability, and dyeing. For example, a process developed by Officina+39 to transform textile waste into dyeing powder.

The ‘Forum’ section also showcased an amazing range of new treatments and finishes for denim, including jacquard, lace, embroidery, devoré denim, 3D textures, as well as woven, tapestry and honeycomb effects, and more. “We are witnessing a trend for increasingly sophisticated and decorative fabrics, as craftsmanship and new materials combine with denim,” said Julieta Mercerat, denim expert within Première Vision’s fashion team.

“Among our new products this season, denim woven with metallic fibres or overlaid on a transparent nylon armature, as well as denim blended with python-effect raffia, which clients found especially attractive,” said Sara Coppini, sales manager at Outside, the jacquard denim line developed by Tessitura Fabritex, a fabric producer based in Prato, Tuscany.

“Our company has been manufacturing jacquard fabric for 50 years. Six years ago, we began to specialise in denim too,” said Coppini, who belongs to the second generation of one of Fabritex’s two founding families. “The show went very well, although we noticed there were fewer visitors from outside Italy. Fewer of them made the journey, and when they did, only for one day instead of two as before, proof that money is tight,” she added.

A short distance away, at Isko, the stand was never quiet. There too, innovations took centre-stage. Like Isko Multitouch, a versatile fabric developed from a yarn whose structure is modified by being subjected to very high temperatures. “[Isko Multitouch] can adapt to all kinds of finishes and textures, permanently,” said Keith O’Brien, Isko’s senior global marketing & PR manager, showing FashionNetwork.com various pairs of jeans made with pleated, crinkled, and embossed denim, and even some made in a soft-textured, velvet-like fabric. 

“Creativity is a must. The fashion aspect remains the main draw for our clients, even ahead of sustainability, an aspect on which we have nevertheless been focusing for years,” he added.

Japanese firms were among the show’s most in-demand exhibitors, having travelled to Milan with a contingent of nine companies. Long-established denim manufacturer Kowa Company, founded in 1894 as a cotton supplier, presented for example a unique type of denim woven from a high-twist yarn made from blended Japanese paper. The result is an extremely light, dry, almost crunchy fabric, which fascinated many visitors.

“A lot of people came to our stand, more than 30 companies on the first day and 20 on the second, twice as many as in the June edition, and 40% of them were new clients,” said Yutaka Ishikawa, sales manager for Kowa’s Lifestyle department.

The stand was equally busy at Kuroki, a Japanese producer founded in 1950, which preserves traditional know-how by using looms that are more than 70 years old. “People are enjoying traditional products again. There is renewed interest in authentic, durable and high-quality products,” says Walter Manfroi, in charge of Blue.Men Distribution, which handles Kuroki’s sales in Europe.

Among Kuroki’s summer 2026 novelties, a grey fabric dyed with carbon and natural indigo, aimed primarily at denim connoisseurs and purists. “People are worried and are spending less, the market is tense, but we don’t complain. Denim is perhaps the only product that is selling well worldwide,” he concluded.