Celine has once again chosen the video format to unveil its new men’s collection, alternating black and white with colour to the strains of Jean-Philippe Rameau’s Indes Galantes. In this superb film entitled “The bright young”, shot in Norfolk in the east of England, Hedi Slimane abandons the allure of the rebellious rocker to concentrate on very classic pieces in the spirit of the 1920s. For Spring/Summer 2025, he revisits the gentleman’s wardrobe through sophisticated, virtuoso tailoring.
The creative director of the LVMH fashion house chose Holkham Hall as his backdrop, the Palladian-style residence built by the Earl of Leicester in the 18th century and its magnificent park, where herds of deer sometimes wander. The lanky models, like young aristocrats fresh out of top-flight Eton College, cross the immense English garden with their innate elegance, hands in the pockets of their impeccable suits. They skirt the neatly trimmed hedges, strolling between fountains and statues with an extremely chic allure.
Suits made of canvas are in pride of place, preferably three-pieces, with fine chains protruding from the waistcoat pockets, a reference to the gusseted watches of yesteryear. It is masterfully cut from soft, beautiful English linen, summer cashmeres and light tweeds, and paired with white or striped shirts. The traditional banker’s pinstripe suit and the all-white ensemble are not to be missed.
Pegged trousers are worn high-waisted. They stay close to the body without losing any of their comfort or natural movement. The jacket has all the subtleties of masculine codes.
Hedi Slimane offered a double-breasted version, sometimes with vertical stripes and gimping, a stricter version in navy with a precious heraldic crest embroidered on the pocket, or a silk chamber jacket tied at the waist with a ribbon belt. And let’s not forget the military uniform jackets, the red frock coat used for hunting or the long velvet cape with gold braid.
These young gentlemen roam the countryside on bicycles (designed by the stylist) carrying baskets filled with wild flowers. Sometimes they take romantic boat trips. In a more daring style, the Celine boy sometimes dares to wear a biker jacket with mini-shorts and knee-high socks, or a suit-short.
The designer has revived the retro style of the turn of the last century, leaving no stone unturned. From the double-clip braces to the slim regimental ties and bow ties, not forgetting the flower in the buttonhole, the essential boater hat and the white twisted cricket jumper with its V-neck edged in red and blue.
Rounding out the ensemble is formal or evening wear, with grey flannel trousers, a dinner jacket shirt, black frock coat and top hat, and the house’s new fragrance “A rebours”, inspired by the novel of the same name by Joris-Karl Huysmans and its hero, the decadent dandy Jean Des Esseintes.
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