Usually the National Theatre is the destination for theatre lovers, but for one afternoon only, fashion took over, courtesy of Burberry.
On Monday, the last day of London Fashion Week, those crossing Waterloo bridge were met with a giant digital billboard erected over the theatre announcing the British trench coat maker had seized the building for the unseasonably balmy sunny afternoon. The location overlooking the Thames, the view peppered with key London landmarks, from Big Ben and the London Eye, to the Palace of Westminster and the skyline of Canary Wharf, felt like a particularly fitting setting for the brand, which, under Daniel Lee’s creative direction, has sought to reassert its Britishness and connect more to its outdoors heritage.
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In the past, Lee interpreted this as talking to the local spirit of London, showing new collections in local parks like Highbury Fields and Victoria Park and collaborating with local institutions like Norman’s Cafe in Tufnell Park. But his latest show setting felt like a statement: directly connecting Burberry to the heart of London’s arts and culture scene, figuratively and literally.
The show took place in the building’s foyer, on a ‘Burberry Lilac’ carpet rolled out especially for the occasion, which formed part of the minimalist set designed by British artist Gary Hume. As expected, there was a suitably starry turnout, many of whom were Brit cultural and creative personalities: actors Olivia Colman and Jodie Turner-Smith, musicians Skepta and Kano, Olympians Keely Hodgkinson and Katarina Johnson-Thompson, and footballers Eberechi Eze and Declan Rice, who were also joined by Rio Ferdinand. Man of the moment Barry Keoghan also made a cameo.
The collection itself felt lighter in tone than some of Lee’s previous collections, yet was full of house codes he’s sought to establish throughout his time at the brand. Dressing for ‘The Great Outdoors’ was a recurring theme; an earthy colour palette present throughout the collection, which had a distinct utilitarian feel. Cropped rain capes, waxed jackets and parkers used sun-bleached fabrics to give them a worn-in, weathered look, often embellished with feather trims. Dresses used deconstructed trench detailing, while caro-trousers were relaxed but distinctly feminine in their silhouettes, slim against the ankle.
There were also some sparkly party numbers, and on the accessories front, heeled clogs and rope-detail sandals, teamed with slouchy oversized satchels and soft suede ‘hold everything’ bags perfect for a weekend escape to the countryside. The classic Burberry check, meanwhile, ran throughout, on jackets, bag straps and belts.
On the runway, once again, Burberry pulled out the stops when it came to casting, turning to many familiar Brit faces to model the new collection: Edie and Jean Campbell, Lily Donaldson, Neelam Gill, Kai-Isaiah Jamal, Alva Claire, Maya Wigram. Off the catwalk, the model attendance was just as starry: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Erin O’Connor, David Gandy, Jordan Dunn, Leomie Anderson and Lila Moss, all turned out to support.
Later that night, many of them migrated to the recently reopened The Roof Gardens just off Kensington high street for a blow-out after party, hosted in partnership with the British Fashion Council. Among the myriad of models, celebs and designers were surprise guests Mayor of London Sadiq Khan and Deputy Prime Minister Angela Rayner. As fashion parties go, it doesn’t get much more London than that.
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