Translated by
Nicola Mira
Published
February 26, 2025
Rodolfo Zengarini, CEO of Italian footwear producer Zengarini, currently exhibiting at the Micam trade show with all its licensed brands (Bikkembergs, Cavalli, John Richmond, Ungaro Paris and Guy Laroche), has spoken to FashionNetwork.com about its forthcoming projects.
“Following a boom year in 2022, and a more settled one in 2023, last year we held our positions, a positive outcome in itself. In the last few years, we have prioritised investing in brands with which we have well-established licensing contracts, but in 2025 a deal with a new international name could be in the offing,” said Zengarini. “In the meantime, we’ll open again the showroom in Dubai, which we closed during the pandemic, and we’re negotiating new deals in Northern Europe,” he added.
But Zengarini has primarily set its sights on the USA, where it has been active for many years with a showroom in New York: “We want to further strengthen our position in the US, currently our main market. In addition, we will return to Russia, a market that in the past has been very important for us, one that I think will soon start up again; we’ll take part in the Obuv’- Mir Kozhi footwear show in Moscow in March.”
Zengarini generates 50% of its revenue outside Italy, and its other leading markets are Eastern Europe, Greece, Spain, and Portugal.
At Micam, Zengarini presented the John Richmond and Richmond X collections. The former is characterised by three essential elements: a restyling of its classic models, the use of innovative materials, and a contemporary reinterpretation of some signature accessories. The result is a collection with a strong retro vibe, featuring models that look like unique items unearthed at a vintage market, thanks to Zengarini’s painstaking restoration of period pieces that have been transformed with a distressed effect.
The key silhouettes capture John Richmond’s DNA: ankle boots in woven fibres, bold military-style boots, and modern reinterpretations of classic models, like a fresh take on the famous Oxford brogues. Every detail is painstakingly curated, from the brushed finish to the swallow-tail uppers and the super-comfy insoles in ultra-soft, shock-absorbing chlorophyll. The collection is characterised by broad lines with a lightweight touch, blending natural materials such as leather and grass for striking visual effects.
Richmond X is a quintessentially modern collection, featuring streamlined designs, high-tech materials and stylish everyday looks, for example the best-selling Sukajan model. Multi-layer soles in three or four different materials make the shoes light and comfortable, as do the shock-proof memory foam insoles, featured also on the more formal models. Some of the sneakers sport a distressed, well-worn look, with vinyl details and rubber tread. The colour palette focuses on natural hues such as beige and cream. The more luxurious models feature sheepskin lining and natural leather uppers, while loafers and military boots are equipped with hand-crafted soles and rubber tread, and enhanced by details like detachable tassels.
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