Yohji Yamamoto showed a lineup of quilted outerwear at Paris Fashion Week on Thursday, sending messy-haired models slowly down the runway, enveloped in chunky jackets and long overcoats.

For his fall-winter 2025-2026 menswear collection, the veteran designer mostly stuck to his signature, dark color palette, pairing thick suit jackets with matching trousers, cut utility style, with pockets on the legs.

Some coats were printed with messages, including “Despair is the conclusion of the fool” and “Sadness and suffering are the flowers of life.”

Models paused at times, turning slowly to show all angles, some taking off their coats to demonstrate the reversible nature of the garments. One blew a kiss to the audience, while another put his arm around the model accompanying him – a woman with a frizzy, white ponytail.

Paris men’s Fashion Week runs through Sunday, featuring French labels including Louis Vuitton, Dior, Hermes , Jacquemus and Ami Paris as well as American brand Willy Chavarria. Haute couture shows will follow.