Set against an energetic and summery backdrop, the Parisian fashion fair, Who’s Next, commenced this Sunday.The event was held over two expansive levels of Hall 7 at Porte de Versailles, alongside a suite of exhibitions curated by organiser WSN.

As the remnants of Olympic and Paralympic signage are being cleared away, Who’s Next has taken residence on the third floor of Hall 7, dedicated to ready-to-wear collections. The level below now serves as a hub for footwear, bags, and accessories, integrating exhibitors from Bijorhca (jewelry), Interfilière (materials for lingerie and swimwear), and the From section that showcases major imports, primarily from India.

Celebrating its 30th anniversary, this year’s edition attracted a sizeable crowd right from its inauguration, quickly energizing both levels of the venue. The event’s decor, awash in hues of yellow, pink, and blue, evoked the fleeting days of summer. Inflatable yellow and blue cylinders interspersed throughout, a sizeable pink inflatable castle, and a terrace pétanque court added playful notes to the ambiance. Signage adorned with white clouds against a blue backdrop subtly nodded to the Spring/Summer 2025 collections poised to debut.

The fair hosted 1,200 exhibitors, with 70% hailing from international origins, who collectively appreciated the dynamic interplay facilitated by the event’s compact layout. Sophie Rousseau, artistic director at Brigitte Bardot, praised the streamlined arrangement: “Having apparel brands on a single level simplifies navigation compared to previous layouts spread across multiple halls.”

Philippe Corbin, head of Léon & Harper, commended the exceptional staging and expressed optimism that the vibrancy of Sunday would persist into the week. He remarked on the subdued international turnout initially, hopeful for increased engagement. The morning started quietly for Nathalie Chaize, a French ready-to-wear brand that had engaged in a retail scouting tour before the fair. “Establishing robust retailer relationships is essential,” noted Yves Casile, who lamented the recent closure of several multi-brand stores across France.

Participating in Who’s Next serves diverse purposes for brands. Rhum Raisin aimed to showcase its refreshed, youthful image to captivate new retailers. “After 25 years, we’ve reinvigorated the brand with a contemporary, youthful spirit,” Léa Mori explained, highlighting the caftan as next summer’s standout piece.

For Ablankpage, a fledgling Japanese brand that frequently graces Tokyo Fashion Week, this inaugural participation at Who’s Next is a strategic move to break into the European market. “My ultimate dream is to join Paris Fashion Week someday!” exclaimed founder Larprojpaiboon Phoovadej. For the established brand Arena, the fair is an opportunity to propel a premium line, “Studio,” aimed at expanding its reach to urban and upscale markets, according to Shelly Minka from Talk Studio, who added, “We’re seizing the post-Olympic wave.”

On the ground level, Nat&Nin, a French accessory brand, encountered familiar clients and forged new connections. “We’re eager to see what’s next,” commented co-founder Ninny Heide. Nearby, the Spanish footwear brand Angel de la Guarda experienced a slow start, primarily reconnecting with existing clients, as noted by co-founder Ana Salvador.

Some Interfilière exhibitors reported fluctuating visitor numbers but remained optimistic. “We’ve secured numerous new contacts,” a representative from knitwear specialist Darun Textile remarked, surrounded by approximately 50 fellow Chinese exhibitors. Meanwhile, the Bijorhca section buzzed with activity, especially in the wholesale area, where long queues formed.

The day culminated with the Hall 7 terrace transforming into a dance floor in the evening, where organizers, exhibitors, and guests collectively celebrated the fair’s 30th anniversary. The festivities are set to continue through Tuesday, marking another successful chapter in Who’s Next’s history.