MY other half Neil and I are keen walkers and have done our fair share of hikes at home here in Scotland.
But for our last trip, we wanted to explore somewhere neither one of us had ever been before. Catch was — we didn’t want to have to do the planning, preparing or the driving.
And that’s when we enlisted the help of the UK’s oldest tour operators, HF Holidays, who have been perfecting the outdoor tours and countryside retreats since 1913.
The 113-year-old firm now runs over 260 guided and self-guided holidays in six continents — and the award-winning firm manages 16 country homes across the UK, all just a stone’s throw from some of Great Britain’s most beloved national parks and beauty spots.
So we knew a stay at a HF house guaranteed to provide us with a well-equipped base.
Most difficult thing we had to do? Choose one!
We settled on a seven-day guided trail holiday which took us through some of the most dramatic scenery along the unique and wild coastline of Exmoor.
Taking on a significant section of the 603-mile long Somerset and North Devon Coastal Path, we set off from Minehead and finished in the surfer’s favourite Croyde in north Devon — over 70 miles away.
We stayed at Holnicote House near to the pretty village of Selworthy, deep into the Exmoor National Park, close to both the romantic moors loved by poets, writers and wild ponies, and the seaside amusements of Minehead.
The historic home, now owned by the National Trust, offers cosy accommodation and was peaceful, welcoming and relaxing.
Our ensuite room had a traditional bay window overlooking a wooded garden, which was stunning as it turned autumnal, with only bird song punctuating the blissful silence.
You can travel solo, as a couple or as a group with HF Holidays — they are designed for like-minded travellers to come together to have a shared experience in the great outdoors, make friends.
It’s a truly multi-generational experience.
As residents we all dined together on big tables and were encouraged to move around to speak to different guests staying at the 32-room home.
We met people who travel around the UK ‘bagging’ the walks, and others who travel alone for the social aspect.
We were just about the youngest people there (39 and 51) but I know twenty and thirty-somethings that couldn’t have kept up with some of the regulars on our trip. We just about managed ourselves!
Each resident was there for different reasons, with multiple guided walks at different pace and abilities happening at the same time.
HF — standing for Holiday Fellowship — was the brainchild of social reformer Thomas Arthur Leonard who sought to improve the lives of factory workers by offering walking holidays instead of a week by the seaside.
However our trip did start at the seaside — Minehead to be precise.
Neil loves Minehead after several trips to nearby Butlin’s in his youth, but this time the amusements were give the cold shoulder, as we laced up our boots and began our first day of hiking upwards, towards Selworthy Beacon.
We were never far from the sweeping seafronts, affording panoramic views after each climb to a summit to tuck into our elevenses.
We picked gingerly down weaving rocky paths to the picturesque village of Bossingston, part of the National Trust, with its thatched cottages and lovingly restored farm buildings.
Our first day concluded at the stunning port village of Porlock Weir, which, on the turn of autumn, saw campers light up their fires to dry off.
We headed for quick stop at the Ship Inn and a refreshing pint, before getting our bus back to our country house and a fabulous, and much needed, dinner.
And so the days continued like this. Lovely walks with guides and views to die for. Each night we were transported safely back to Holicote where we could dry our walking gear and stuff our boots with newspaper in the dedicated kit room.
We’d pick our packed lunches the night before to pick up the next day, but not before a hearty cooked breakfast and rounds of buttered toast and continental fare.
The staff would fill up our flasks and provide everything we needed before whisking us to and from our start and end points.
HF Holidays’ seven-night Somerset & North Devon Coast Path Guided Trail is from £1239 per person in June and August 2025.
That includes full-board accommodation and all guided walks. See hfholidays.co.uk.
Fly EasyJet to Bristol airport from Glasgow from £17.99pp each way. See easyjet.com/en.
Tired and hungry after each day of our walk, after a quick refreshment at the in-house bar, we were able to dine like champions with three course meals perfect for the hungry hiker, before early nights exhausted from all the fresh air.
It’s easy to become institutionalised after just a few days. And you’ll know it when you’re thinking about your next marvellous meal, rather than how sore your muscles and feet are.
We had five days of walking, with a rest day in the middle, and together our group picked away at the route split into days of walking between eight and 12 miles each.
Our informative guide Mark, who volunteers his time, talked us through each stage and points of interest along the journey.
With the weather always changing, he would adapt the route to make sure we had our best chance of walking safely and efficiently (while staying dry).
We accomplished the steep valley that connects the twin villages of Lynmouth and Lyton connected by a water-powered cliff railway and conquered the valley of rocks, complete with wild goats, towards the Great Hangman — standing 1,043 feet above sea level.
Huge skies reached across the Bristol Channel as we followed the path to the Victorian retreat of Ilfracombe where we were met by Verity, the 20ft stainless steel statue of a pregnant woman standing on the pier looking out to the Welsh coast.
The artwork was created by Damien Hirst, who lives in the Devonshire town, and was loaned to the community for 20 years starting from its installation in 2012.
The next day was probably the hardest. It was like brutal hill sprints, as the landscape changed as we moved from Somerset to Devon, and dropped 1,000metres to sea-level and back up again seven times in less than a mile.
Let’s just say, the big breakfasts and the hearty three-course dinners were being put to work like our life depended on it!
After a flat walk across vast beaches to meet secluded sands of Croyde Bay, we watched surfers arrive in their droves to take in the last shreds of the British summer, as we caught our breath among rock pools.
Our bus transported us back through the moors and we were done. Tired and happy, but done.
On our last day we took a gentle stroll up to the beautiful village of Selworthy for a cream tea and a wander around its beautiful gardens before saying not goodbye but au revoir.
Because our week with the HF family had left us wanting more and we’ll be beating a path back to their door very soon.
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