The British Fashion Council is undergoing some big changes. Not only does it have a new CEO in the form of journalist Laura Weir (who will take over from Caroline Rush this April), but the organisation has just announced a huge development regarding its approach to sustainability, taking on Copenhagen Fashion Week‘s strict requirements.
This year, the BFC will adopt the sustainability requirements framework that was first developed by Copenhagen Fashion Week in 2020 (and which has been updated annually since). The organisation is widely regarded to have the most up-to-date and forward-thinking approach to sustainability of all the major fashion weeks.
The BFC and CPHFW will be partnering on this project, which will see new stricter minimum standards to be met for brands to be a part of the BFC’s Newgen programme at London Fashion Week. This year will see the onboarding of the new requirements and they will then be fully adopted by January 2026.
“We are thrilled to align with the Copenhagen Fashion Week sustainability requirements across BFC Newgen, this builds on our existing minimum standards and reaffirms our commitment to driving positive change across the global fashion industry,” said Rush. “This partnership is a significant step in ensuring that sustainability becomes integral to the future of fashion. Together, we are creating a framework that empowers emerging designer fashion businesses to lead the way and contribute tangibly to a more sustainable and responsible industry.”
Part of the framework will involve brands having to share their sustainability strategy, and they will have to provide proof of how their designs offer both quality and longevity. The materials used in collections will be under particular scrutiny – at least 60 per cent will have to be from preferred materials, while certain fabrics will be banned (including animal fur, skins and feathers). Meanwhile, the working conditions of employees will be set at a standard, correct waste sorting will have to be documented and no single-use plastic will be used.
“We are delighted to join forces with the British Fashion Council to further expand the reach of our sustainability requirements,” Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of CPHFW said. “This partnership not only fosters much-needed industry alignment but also underscores the unique potential of fashion weeks and councils to drive positive change within the industry. With the British Fashion Council, as an influential player in the global fashion landscape, we see a lot of potential to further amplify the impact of our collective commitment to sustainability.”
The BFC is not the first organisation to take on CPHFW’s requirements. It follows in the footsteps of the Norwegian Fashion Hub and Fashion Council Germany, who have also adopted the rules for both Oslo and Berlin fashion weeks. But, London is the first of the four major fashion capitals to make these changes and could encourage New York, Milan and Paris to follow suit.