The Spring/Summer 2025 collections showcased on the Paris runways this weekend highlighted the multifaceted nature and independent spirit of modern women, through strong yet refined ensembles. Particularly striking were the offerings from three fashion houses, each led by a formidable female creative director: Carven, Barbara Bui, and Isabel Marant.
 

Carven invited guests into its historic home, an apartment on the fifth floor of 6 Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées, where founder Marie-Louise Carven first established her couture salon in 1945, just above her original boutique. Attendees were scattered throughout the various rooms, which have remained almost unchanged since those days. With their aged parquet floors, vintage wallpaper, and a view of the Grand Palais, these spaces are now occupied by the studio and team of creative director Louise Trotter, who took the helm in 2023.

Stepping into the setting felt like entering an intimate family gathering. The layout—complete with a welcoming entrance hall, cozy living room, bedroom, kitchen, and even a slightly ajar wardrobe—immediately created a homely, almost nostalgic atmosphere. The models seemed caught in a moment of indecision, as if hesitating between stepping out or staying in. One was wrapped in a plush, robe-style wool coat, while others, wearing mules or slippers, draped themselves in what appeared to be casually arranged sheets or oversized shirts, evoking a sense of effortless chic. Some donned ensembles that could have been plucked straight from a grandmother’s closet, such as an embroidered cotton jumpsuit, while elsewhere a dress appeared whimsically constructed from pillowcases.

Large rectangular panels of cotton, silk, or denim were pieced together with simple straps to create floaty, comfortable dresses and tops, layered over delicate tunics. These garments gently flared out at the back, as if gracefully slipping off the shoulders, giving a sense of casual elegance. Some tops were enhanced with voluminous peplums at the waist, adding a touch of movement to the otherwise minimalist monochrome silhouettes. The entire collection radiated a quiet sophistication, elevated by a natural refinement and subtle modernity.
 
With a few deft strokes, Louise Trotter modernised Madame Carven’s classic sleeveless dresses into breezy, casual pieces that embodied the spirit of freedom. She imbued the collection with a sense of lightness through unstructured, buttonless jackets, wide-sleeved blouses, bermuda shorts, cropped trousers, and square-cut tops.

The details made all the difference: opera gloves in tulle, scarves with thick fringes tied at the ends, and cashmere coats wrapped snugly around the models’ shoulders. Other thoughtful touches included a row of pearls tracing the neckline of a sleeveless faux-fur top, continuing as a delicate necklace down the back, and a crystal chain adorning a pair of sleek black sunglasses.

Upon leaving, guests were invited to visit the boutique on the ground floor to explore more of the Carven woman’s world through a curated project by Trotter, featuring a selection of unique objects—chairs, lamps, and vases—alongside art pieces and books, created in collaboration with Joel Muggleton from LS Gomma Studio and the Parisian collectors and creators David Miro and Tea Sirbiladze of Paris Image Unlimited.

  
For the 2025 summer season, Barbara Bui unveiled a complete wardrobe that seamlessly combined tailoring, denim, playful bandana motifs, and luxurious evening wear. The show featured fluid lamé suits that looked as if they had been poured from molten silver. Draped golden jersey dresses and sheer organza jackets and trousers played with transparency, revealing the inner workings and construction details of each piece. “It’s very pure, yet irreverent, as you can see all the interiors and the structure of the jacket,” noted the always vibrant designer, who hosted the presentation at her headquarters and showroom in Paris’ Marais district.

The collection offered an array of strong statement pieces and easy-to-wear basics, effortlessly mixed and matched, all infused with the quintessential rock-chic twist that has defined the Barbara Bui brand since its inception. One standout moment was the reimagining of the classic banker’s suit. The traditional silhouette was paired with a bustier made from the same pinstriped fabric, while the iconic navy pinstripe jacket was rendered in silk and detailed with zippers running down the sleeves and back, creating a fresh, summery aesthetic with a sensual twist.

This presentation also marked the debut of Barbara Bui’s new gold jewellery collection, “Ekkaï,” created in collaboration with designer Aurélie Bidermann. The line, inspired by serpent motifs, features a long necklace, a bold cuff bracelet, and an ear cuff. “A mutual friend introduced us, and we clicked instantly. Their craftsmanship is of exceptional quality, and I’m a fan of statement jewellery that exudes strength,” Bui shared.

“Aurélie’s approach is more delicate and feminine, while my approach is rooted in rock energy. We’ve blended our worlds beautifully,” she continued. The collection will officially launch in November at both brands’ boutiques and e-shops, with prices ranging from €170 to €690.

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Isabel Marant wrapped up Sunday evening with a high-energy show at the Palais Royal gardens. An eager crowd gathered at the entrance, hoping for a glimpse of K-pop stars, as guests took their seats around the central fountain. Marant swapped her usual large tent setup for an open-air runway, embracing the fresh air despite the recent drop in temperatures.

Undeterred by the chill, Isabel Marant effortlessly turned up the heat with her vibrant, spirited fashion. Her collection for Summer 2025, infused with an exotic flair, seemed tailor-made for sun-drenched destinations. To the rhythm of lively percussion, the models strode down the runway, illuminated by a warm glow, as if emerging from the depths of a tropical jungle, dressed in ultra-short ensembles adorned with a riot of fringes and dangling threads, their waists cinched with intricately crafted leather belts.

With bare legs and feet wrapped in gladiator sandals or fringed moccasins, the models seamlessly embodied a mix of safari chic, bohemian folklore, and a touch of Native American influence. Dresses were cut daringly short, while leather micro-shorts glittered with metal studs in the dim evening light. Long fringes cascaded over poncho-like blouses, and bolero jackets were intricately embroidered with ethnic motifs that echoed through the collection in elaborate fringed dresses.

Suede took centre stage, rendered in rich tones of black, camel, chocolate, and burgundy. It was used to craft sharp jackets, tailored trousers, structured shorts, and mini dresses, all featuring delicate cut-out details reminiscent of intricate lacework. Thin leather strips crisscrossed along collars and trailed sensually down the sides of garments, adding a tactile, sensual element that felt both raw and refined.