NYFW: Strong collections from Prabal Gurung, Who Decides War, Sergio Hudson, and Jonathan Cohen

As the saying goes, ‘hope springs eternal’. For Prabal Gurung, the hope that was injected into the Democratic party presidential ticket when Joe Biden withdrew as the party’s candidate was not only contagious but also highly personal. Gurung has been dressing the party’s new candidate, Vice President Kamala Harris, for several years. The hope also seemed to inject some design revitalization as after having some hit-or-miss collections in the post-pandemic seasons; the designer hit his stride on a collection infused with elegance and refinement that stayed true to the designer’s East-West aesthetic.

Hope and dreams—a popular mantra with the designer originally from Nepal whose story reads very much the American Dream—also played into the location. Down on Lower Manhattan at 1 Centre Street is a spectacle of outdoor architecture —which references Roman Imperial, Italian and French Renaissance, and Beaux Arts influence and dates back to 1914—called The Archway.

Gurung fashioned a T-shaped runway on the massive cobblestone arched passage-covered plaza. At its apex sat an orchestra that serenaded the models who almost entirely had some sort of train connected to their outfits – most successful in chiffon – that blew in the wind, which was either a coincidental weather experience that worked in the designer’s favor or it was due to the tunnel effect of the archway. Whatever the cause, it made for a stunning site.

This season, Gurung essentially did away with fuss, tailoring interspersed with airy, coquettish, and sheer motifs. The approach exuded a crispness and restraint to the collection, demonstrating Gurung’s knack for pizzazz. The overall garment production level also seemed elevated, especially in some sleek knits.

As the last look exited, instead of the models, which included Jessica Stam, doing a final walk, a bevy of them came out in quick succession in various white and cream cotton sundresses and stood at the top of the runway.

Simultaneously, they threw pink powder dye used in color ceremonies cleverly concealed in their hands; a pair of Indian drummers appeared, banging out an upbeat sound, and joined the models as they continued down the runway. Gurung finally emerged in his custom-designed ‘Vote’ T-shirt emblazoned with Harris Walz on the back, suddenly crystallizing the beaded embroidered coconut tree dress in the show to make perfect sense.

Post-show, Gurung explained his show’s impetus. The designer recalled being in Nepal this past March for Holi, a festival marked by joy and color, celebrating new beginnings with unity and excitement. America felt divisive and questioned any inspiration coming from the festival.

“There is this sense of ease and abandonment [which came through in the collection], but it is also optimistic and full of hope. I’ve been dressing [Kamala Harris] for a while, so when the nomination came, I said we were going to lean in hard toward this,” he told FashionNetwork.com backstage.

“I believe in the power of women, and I stand here today on the shoulder of women. When I see her, I see my mom, aunts, and sisters.”

Of the embroidered coconut dress, the designer said it was all in good fun to the viral moment when Kamala told a story that her mother asked “What was wrong with you? Do you think you just fell out of a coconut tree?”
To that end, the designer noted he would sell the T-shirts endorsing the Harris Walz ticket on his website just after the show.

Gurung explained that he wanted to do a show there for some time. “I live downtown, and I am always on a Citi bike. I pass this building and have wanted to do something here for ten years. This is the only country you can dream like that and make things happen.”

From the start of the Who Decides War 10th collection show at the Hall des Lumieres Saturday, whose walls projected a series of Greco-Roman revival architecture prevalent in Europe, it was clear the brand had something different up its sleeve.

The hunch was strengthened as the music started featuring a live kids’ orchestra with a musical track overlay thanks to and directed by Trap artist Cash Cobain. As the husband-and-wife design duo spent time in Paris recently during the first round of the 2024 LVMH Prize competition, it was not hard to wonder if spending time so close to the heart of haute couture influenced the collection.

The show was dominated by red carpet-inspired evening gowns and dresses that incorporated the brand’s codes; the riff on the stained-glass window, the shredding effects, tulle overlays, and the straps combined to become fabric took on a different interpretation as D’Amore and Bravado showed their talent lies beyond streetwear.

Even the guys in the show looked more gala versus club-ready in elegant ‘suits’ featuring cut-outs of the pointed arch stain glass window that is the brand’s distinctive shape.

Speaking to FashionNetwork.com backstage—which took the post-show frenzy to another level considering that artists such as Nle Choppa, YG, Masego, and Selah Marley were also in attendance—Tela D’Amore explained the thinking.

“It was all about pigeonholing and that release from expectation. It was an ascension from any kind of restraints and boxes that people put you in,” she explained, adding, “Working with Cash Cobain, a Trap artist and incredible producer, is what it’s about. Whether no matter the field and where there is talent, that talent can shine in more than one specific category,” D’Amore said.

“The orchestra is exactly the point of the runway music. Cobain has one pocket he’s been successful in, but it’s not his only limit. It’s a good big thing to highlight, especially in these young artists; they are so talented, but they do what works, what’s fire, and makes money, but at the same time, they have an incredible range that needs to be celebrated.”

While discussing the musical collaboration, it was clear that D’Amore was referring to the brand’s work. While the duo didn’t make the final eight finalist cut, D’amore reflected on the LVMH Prize experience.

“Everything was a huge learning experience for us. I learned I am in this room with all these talented people, and we can easily stand toe-to-toe if not ascend past them,” she said.

If Saturday’s show, with his energy, fan base, and design evolution, is any indication, they’ve already risen to another level.

Saturday’s show at NeueHouse was not only a first in terms of location for Hudson but also a first for the upscale powerhouse co-working and cultural space just off Park Avenue South.

The facility has never opened its doors to a NYFW runway show. Thanks to a collaboration with Woodford Reserve whisky—complete with a fun video-slash-successful ad campaign with Hudson drawing a comparison between fashion and whiskey—it made for fun all around. Doors opened an hour before for guests to enjoy specially brewed cocktails while mingling in the spacious lobby.

Once the new logistics-lifesaving CFDA Shop with Google-sponsored shuttle bus arrived with the final guests, the show began with the sultry slow jazz sounds of Anita Baker and Nancy Wilson as models such as Veronica Webb, Martha Hunt and Jessica Stam (who has returned to several runways this season).

Hudson has cornered the ‘evolution-not-a-revolution’ approach to design by creating special occasion day and night clothing that looks stunning without overpowering.

“It started with my mother, a dynamic, stylish woman, and the most stylish woman I know that ever lived. Everything I make that you see she may have worn at one point in her life,” the designer told FashionNetwork.com.

Sergio’s mother, Sheldon—who introduced the South Carolina-born and raised designer to sewing—was in attendance.

“It’s all about the woman and the person you are dressing. If I can accessorize their personality and make them feel and look better that is what I am about; I’m not about making people over and making them look like a different person; it’s enhancing who you are. That is the Sergio Hudson woman,” he added.

That may be, but this season, she will have company. Hudson introduced a men’s capsule collection that coordinated with the primarily pastel color palette.

“We have a lot of requests for men’s styles, so we said let’s give it a try and took six looks from women’s and developed men’s styles and said let’s see what happens,”
the designer added.

Growth is undoubtedly on the mind of brand owner Inga Beckham—just the woman Hudson is dressing—standing near Hudson backstage. She was excited to share a new initiative with Christos TK on his live-stream shopping channel Covet by Christos.

“It’s a new way to shop and a new way for us to distribute. It’s what is happening in the world, so we are trying to pivot to consider other avenues,” she said, noting the brand is also on Amazon Luxury and currently distributes in Canada and Dubai.

Jonathan Cohen’s Saturday morning showing at The Center in the West Village was a delight on many levels. The easy access, the loyal group of brand professionals and friends, and the coffee and baked goods made viewing his streamlined and focused collection, bursting with color, all that exciting.

Speaking to FashionNetwork.com, Cohen explained that his influence came from a condition he learned about sound color synesthesia.

“Synesthesia is a condition in which you see different colors when you listen to music (or eat food in some cases). It’s a really emotional connection of color and how it makes you feel. I don’t have, so I approached it from a different angle of reading about other people’s experience,” Cohen said.

A Cocteau Twins song was playing in the background. Cohen feels the singer Elizabeth Fraser’s voice has a transformational effect.

“One woman said while listening to a symphony; first, she sees white in the beginning, then pinks and red and then blues, and then it’s a supernova of color,” he continued.

Cohen ‘tackled’ the subject with vibrant mixed color and pattern—the latter being his forte—by exaggerating his anemone motif in a nod to the explosive star phenomenon. He further mixed things up with tie-dye, exquisite beading, and colorful layered Swarovski crystal belts, an homage to another star, Anna Wintour.