On Wednesday night, as special guest at Pitti Uomo 107, MM6 Maison Margiela literally shone a spotlight on its menswear with a striking runway show. The Parisian label, owned by Italian fashion group OTB, chose as venue the huge Tepidarium Giacomo Roster, an Italian Art Nouveau greenhouse in Florence, which MM6 transformed into a dark place, a cross between a seedy street and an abandoned hangar. The ideal setting for a haunting nocturnal romp veined with melancholy.

The hall was set in darkness as the models strode forward like so many shadows. Their vibe was part misunderstood poet, part cursed rock star, their eyes hidden by large wraparound dark glasses, ties knotted around their necks like flimsy scarves. Bright spotlights cast white beams on them, revealing a collection predominantly in black, a nod to the show-performance staged by Maison Margiela at Pitti Uomo in 2006, when it presented a collection exclusively featuring white total looks.

From time to time, red and green spotlights illuminated the silhouettes, creating unexpected effects, while colours cropped up as occasional flashes of lightning. Like the sparkling turquoise lurex suit worn over bare skin, and another suit in shimmering red-blue fabric. The MM6 Maison Margiela wardrobe for Fall/Winter 2025-26 seems to have been designed for living in the spotlight. For example, the black denim jacket and overshirt with pockets and metal buttons with matching trousers, the fabric washed out here and there as if the whole ensemble was swept by a beam of light illuminating sections of it.

Similarly, the turtleneck sweaters generated a glittering effect thanks to lurex thread. A three-piece velvet suit, it too worn shirtless, featured a myriad tiny printed stars. Elsewhere, the linen jacket, a Pitti Uomo classic, was reinterpreted in a shiny fabric with a faux-leather effect.

The collection’s inspiration and main theme was a picture of Miles Davis wearing a fur coat, eyes cached behind huge dark glasses, cigarette in his mouth, encapsulating the energetic, sensual vibe of these 30 or so rock-couture looks, at once glamorous and minimalist. Why jazz? “Because [jazz] music has a visceral connection to fashion, it’s effortlessly cool. And because the American musician was a style icon,” said the designer of the MM6 creative team, who chose early on to remain anonymous.

“Coming to Pitti Uomo gave us the opportunity to reflect on our menswear range, designing a collection specifically for this occasion. It’s a contemporary wardrobe mirroring MM6’s attitude, concepts and creative process. Our garments are designed to emphasise the identity of those who wear them. We really wanted to talk about menswear. The looks are still highly wearable, though they convey a certain flamboyance. We thought about how to create strong, surprising items, made to have a striking impact, while careful attention was paid to textures, an essential element in menswear,” said the MM6 designer.

The collection featured suits, trench coats, raincoats, biker jackets, skinny-fit trousers, denim jackets, and more. All the menswear staples were presented in a variety of materials and fabric treatments, from vinyl to suede and papier mâché-effect leather. MM6’s menswear allure was carefully defined by specific details. From the square-toed footwear (whether lace-up brogues or biker boots) to accessories, like the helmet carried by one of the models. A very chic reversible top in faux mink, turned inside out, morphed into a practical, fur-lined nylon bomber jacket.

MM6 also showcased imposing modular gloves in black or white leather, a two-in-one model made by French producer Agnelle, combining a pair of classic driving gloves with a zipped cuff cover to shield the wrists. Another attractive accessory was the weekend travel bag shaped like a compact, rectangular trumpet case, with practical handles for being carried horizontally, also equipped with an extra handle to be carried vertically.

MM6 was created by Maison Margiela in 1997, and introduced menswear three years ago. The men’s collections account for a third of MM6’s sales. Without major advertising or special communications, the line has gradually expanded and has now become a label in its own right, competing with names such as Acne Studio, Miu Miu and Loewe. It is currently distributed via 600 multibrand retailers worldwide, and 23 monobrand stores: 11 of them in Japan, three in Europe (in London, Milan and Paris, a concession at Galeries Lafayette), three between Hong Kong and Macau, and six in China.

“For us, it’s an honour and an incredible opportunity to show at Pitti Uomo. Florence is a magical city that has always been lucky for us, and where we have also shown with Diesel and Marni,” said OTB president Renzo Rosso backstage. Rosso didn’t mention any news with regards to the main label, Maison Margiela, who has recently parted ways with its iconic creative director John Galliano, who left after 10 years in charge. “His successor will be announced in due course. In the meantime, we can count on a wonderful in-house design team,” said Rosso, underlining that “in the past, the label remained active for four years without a creative director.”

MM6 will be showing again in Milan in February with its womenswear collection, plus a few men’s looks.