Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025 is in full swing. The Marie Claire fashion team is on the ground, bringing you all the stand-out moments from the catwalks, as well as a preview of next season’s trends. Take a look at some of our highlights below, and stay tuned for more to come.

Marni

Francesco Risso is a visionary designer. Helming Marni since 2016, the house has become synonymous with his art-infused storytelling and craftsmanship. The brand’s AW25 show took place in its headquarters, dressed as a cabaret room and complete with a score by Dev Heynes. Risso collaborated with Nigerian artists Olaolu Slawn and Soldier Boyfriend to decorate the space, and this spirit ran throughout the collection. Bright colours, hand painted motifs and plenty of fur ran throughout, with a surprise cameo from Tracee Ellis Ross at the show’s end.

Diesel

Glenn Martens always does things at Diesel in his own unique way, and this season was no different. The show was held against a backdrop of the “biggest ever known” graffiti installation, with over three kilometres of graffiti fabric made by a global street art collective of around 7,000 amateur and expert artists. “I love that thousands of people around the world have worked together to create the set design. We gave the global street art collective complete creative freedom – they expressed themselves each in their own way, on a project that’s taken months to achieve. This is the true democracy of Diesel,” said Martens in the show notes. The clothes were as bold as the artwork, with unexpected fabrics and colour clashes providing a visual feast for guests.

Jil Sander

Just hours after the show, it was confirmed that Luke and Lucie Meier — the husband and wife duo who took over as joint creative directors of the German fashion house in 2017 — were exiting Jil Sander. Putting that to one side, this was one of their strongest collections to date. The all-black runway providing the perfect backdrop for the interesting pops of colour and variety of textures which ran throughout the collection — think leather, fur, feathers and satin. It felt exciting without being over the top, staying true to the minimalist roots of the house.

Dsquared2

Dsquared2 closed out the first day of MFW with a huge bang, celebrating the brand’s 30th anniversary with a show entitled ‘Obsessed2’. The set resembled a New York street, with limos, yellow cabs and pick-up trucks arriving to drop off various models — the first of which being rapper Doechii. It was an over-the-top, star-studded show, with the likes of Alex Consani, Irina Shayk, Amelia Gray and Tyson Beckford all walking the runway. Naomi Campbell then appeared with a big, teased out hairdo, wearing a leather bodysuit and boots, personifying the sexy and liberated attitude of the Dsquared2 brand. The finale saw the Caten twins (founders of the brand) being arrested by Brigitte Nielsen, before breaking free for a raucous after party with performances from Doechii and JT.

No.21

For AW25, Alessandro Dell’Acqua was inspired by Sofia Coppola films such as Marie Antoinette, The Virgin Suicides and Lost In Translation. Bows, flowers and feathers featured throughout the collection, giving it an ultra-feminine feel. This was balanced by more practical outerwear in the form of duffel coats, barn jackets and oversized pea coats.