As the world’s leading store buyers continue to analyse the key messages from Fashion Month so far, Simon Longland of Harrods has delivered his verdict.

The luxury department store’s fashion director of buying has given a thumbs-up to Fendi from Milan and London’s Erdem.

He said that “Fendi stood out as the highlight of Milan Fashion Week, delivering a collection that seamlessly blended heritage craftsmanship with modern sophistication. The house’s ability to balance tradition with contemporary allure made it a clear frontrunner of the season”.

As for Erdem, he thinks “London Fashion Week AW25 was a study in refined impact, with Erdem delivering the season’s most exceptional collection — its poetic elegance amplified by a masterful presentation at the British Museum”.

In terms of the fashion show event itself, he was also impressed by Dolce & Gabbana, which “mastered the art of spectacle, with models seamlessly transitioning from the runway to an open-air setting, where a live DJ set brought the energy of the show to the surrounding crowds. This immersive format blurred the lines between the exclusive fashion world and the city itself, creating a dynamic and inclusive experience”.

The key trends he’s focusing on from Milan include shaggy textures. “Shearling and faux fur dominated the runways, appearing in full jackets and coats as well as linings, and trims on trousers and skirts,” he said.

He also took note of the muted palette with a pop of red.

“Black and ivory formed the foundation of most collections, while shades of brown — from soft latte hues to deep espresso — emerged as the strongest colour story. Where designers did embrace colour, red was the undeniable standout, ranging from bright scarlet to deep Bordeaux,” he explained.

Longland noted the leather and suede resurgence too “as a natural complement to the shaggy trend… and not just restricted to outerwear pieces”.

Oversized knitwear was also key with “chunky, enveloping knitwear add[ing] to the season’s theme of tactile comfort and understated luxury”.

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But his must-have piece for AW25 from Milan was “a beautifully crafted shearling coat” that he thinks “is set to be the ultimate wardrobe investment for the season, embodying both warmth and timeless elegance”.

His key themes from London meanwhile included “green in its many shades — mint, apple, grass — woven through collections at Erdem, Huishan Zhang, and Emilia Wickstead, while embellishment took centre stage, from crystal-encrusted gowns to subtle sequin panels. 

“A 1960s influence brought reimagined pillbox hats, sculptural minis, and novelty PVC coats at Emilia Wickstead and Huishan Zhang, while colour palettes softened — muted yet intentional tones defining Roksanda, Erdem, and Edeline Lee”.

As with Milan, he saw outerwear as a key “statement of both function and indulgence” but here it seems to have been less about shaggy textures than luxe details, colour and functionality. 

Longland liked “Huishan Zhang’s crystal details and Simone Rocha’s pearl-embellished hardware [that] elevated utility into luxury. Nowhere was this more evident than at Burberry, where trenches, greatcoats, and rain capes in deep earth tones reasserted the house’s mastery of protection from the elements. The iconic check appeared with subtle restraint, reinforcing heritage through quiet sophistication”.

He thought art “left its mark” too, particularly in Erdem’s collaboration with Kaye Donachie that “brought portraiture to fabric”, while SS Daley “channelled Francis Cadell’s brushwork, and Roksanda reinterpreted Phyllida Barlow’s sculptural language into volume and form”.

Overall in London, he thought the season “was about restraint and impact — where luxury was deliberate, innovation measured, and the conversation between past and present more compelling than ever”.