Italian brands have been riding out the downturn by concentrating on classic ideas, playing with their archives, but updating subtly. Three good examples on Friday in Milan: Tod’s, Loro Piana, and Valextra.

Tod’s: A stroll through Lorenzo Quinn

A cloudy Friday morning in northern Italy, and a dark palette in the Tod’s show staged in rusty old former factory in north Milan.

 
Though an ideal setting for a brilliant art installation by Lorenzo Quinn, a pair of three-meter-wide ribbons that undulated and intertwined for 70 meters. Both held by two enormous white hands, underlining Tod’s key DNA – a community of skilled artisans in its eastern home region, Le Marche.
 
Beside which was a 50-meter-long table, where a score of craftspeople carefully sewed new pairs of moccasins with brown gommino studs.

Out around Quinn’s artwork, the cast strolled languidly as if on an evening stroll. In a season of mono-color, this was another largely print free collection, cut with considerable volume. Opening with a series of oversized cargo pants and surgeon’s smocks in leather; mini capes finished with funnel necklines; cocoon shaped blousons and one rather wonderful poncho. Thanks to careful selection and ingenious treatments all the leather looked opulent and expensive.
 
The best idea from Tod’s creative director Matteo Tamburini was a long series of asymmetric handkerchief skirts, made in pristine white cotton, blue shaved leather, and super beach-chair stripes.
 
Inspired by a journey along the Mediterranean coast, Matteo attired his cast in some great must-have new gomminos topped by multiple ring buckles, and sandals with new Baretta metal bands.
 
But quite why there were so many flip flops was hard to comprehend, as was the weight of the clothes, seeing this was a spring/summer collection. Leather trench coats with hoods for May or June, really?
 
Before Naomi Campbell strode out to much acclaim attired in white silk pants and a long perfectly draped ecru blouse. 
 
The soundtrack of rising to a crescendo with ‘Untravel’ by Rival Consoles, as the cast marched through Lorenzo’s installation.
 

Loro Piana: Loving linen, brand extending

Talk about a homage to linen at Loro Piana, where every single look in the presentation included linen mixed with cashmere, wool, tweed and silk.

And why not, seeing as the brand also controls Solbiati, arguably Italy’s finest linen manufacturer.

Located closed to Loro Piana’s HQ at Quarona in Piedmont, Solbiati makes the finest quality linen thread. So fine, a kilo of the thread will stretch all the way from Loro Piana’s hometown to Milan – 110 kilometers. A clock and a spool of linen attesting to that in an installation.
 
They even celebrated linen in a huge wall hanging by artist Adriana Meunié called ‘Tapestry‘, featuring chunky raw linen fibers and flowers. 
 
Linen featured in combo with banana leaves in knitted tank tops and pants; mixed into waterproof denim parkas; blended into beautiful herringbone cashmere suits for ladies and even in its signature piped lapel Spagna jacket for men. Along with smart linen summer totes for trips to beach clubs.
 
The house also unveiled its first line of sunglasses, though surprisingly not made in tandem with Thelios, the eyewear division of its owner LVMH of France. Instead, Loro Piana was determined to use a specific highly quality acetate and worked with a Japanese specialist supplier.
 
In a busy moment, Loro Piana also presented its first full collection of silk foulards, often using archive imagery, and even created a silk shoulder bag, handy if you only carry sunglasses and mobile phone.
 
Finally, the brand unveiled its first true jewelry ideas, again culling from its DNA, with necklaces featuring mini suitcases used once for carrying cashmere, and bracelets made of enamel flowers of linen, of course.
 
At a tricky moment in fashion and luxury, with many brands suffering double-digit declines in sales, Loro Piana is happily increasing revenues. And all these smart, and DNA respectful, brand extensions look likely to keep growth in double figures in future.
 

Soft sell at Valextra

One of Italy’s classiest bag makers Valextra has always been famous for its precision structured handbags and clutches. This season, it has gone for a softer sell.

Discovered in the archive, the brand offered a new morbido – as the Italians say for soft – bag, with light leather handles, finished with a suede interior. Called: MyLogo Bowling, since it’s rather roomy.
 
Added CEO Xavier Rougeaux: “We have so many of the young generation that ask what we are doing about sustainability. So, we have been using hemp oil rather than chrome to cure our leather.”
 
Standing before a new clutch with a soft easy-to-grip finish. Though always featuring Valextra’s grained leather finished, made with a registered trademark stamp.
 
The modish malleability was also apparent in several top-of-the-range crocodile bags; one in a dusted black, and the another in a stony beige, just like the felt wool covered display bank inside Valextra’s flagship Via Manzoni boutique. 
 
A minimalist piece of staging, though not a minimal price for this last bag. Priced at €40,000 for those who want the ultimate in luxury.