Published
January 24, 2025
If, as half of Paris seems to think, this was Kim Jones final show for the house of Dior, then it was a rather brilliant parting shot.
Boasting all that was smart that Jones has brought to Dior, tailoring panache leavened by a dash of stylish sportswear; a hyper-precise color palette; and the ability to balance delicacy with drama.
Staged inside a giant custom-made tent behind the École Militaire on a miserably wet Friday afternoon, just hours before Jones went to be awarded the Legion d’Honneur by France.
Leading to a packed front row of old buddy designers and friends from the UK – Giles Deacon and Neil Barrett; Kate Moss and Gwendoline Christie – to fete Kim’s honor in haute gamme Laurent restaurant on the Champs Élysées.
From the opening remixed chord of Michael Nyman’s dramatic “McQueen: Time Lapse,” the show looked destined to be a hit. And so, it proved. Beginning with a semi-blindfolded model – the first or many – attired in turtleneck and technical gabardine high priest’s floor scraping skirt; and followed by black silk barathea wrap coat – both brim full of élan. All marching down from a grand staircase built in a giant light box. Talk about a great entrance.
Jones cut his favorite suits – ideally sculpted wrap jackets, where the central clasp was displaced. Many of them sprouting fabric escutcheon or back straps and ribbons.
Made in multiple shades of black, ecru and the brightest of sherbet pink, this was a collection of aplomb and modern refinement. Including some highly covetable leather blouses; crocodile jerkins; and great A-Line cloak coats. While his new metallic black demi-boot with satin knot at the tip will be sure-fire best-sellers. Fully meriting the standing ovation that Jones received.
At the finale, Kim took an extended tour of the massive black runway, pausing to embrace Dior CEO Delphine Arnault, the eldest child of LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault, and then Helene, Bernard’s wife.
Back in October, when the two ladies both turned up for the show of another marque, Loewe by Northern Irishman Jonathan Anderson, observers insisted that this was proof that Jonathan would be taking over the reins at Dior. Now, that the same ladies have both warmly clutched to their bosom Kim, does that mean he might be staying after all? Fashion tea leaves will be read for weeks about their presence.
Whatever happens, Jones can leave Dior with his head held high. He has tripled the menswear division’s business, and imparted a sense of cool, playful style, and sartorial elegance. Moreover, a couple of years back, his Dior shows were the very best of the international season, a moment when Jones was truly in the zone.
But, in the cruel designer world of fighting to maintain fashionable thrones, the professionals exiting the show were asking was this indeed Kim’s last Dior hurrah?
And pausing to look back at the giant Dior gray tent, one could not help noticing what stood behind it. The tomb of Napoleon, another young man who had come to Paris in search of fame and glory. Before a less-than-ideal retirement.
Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.