There is still something to be said for paying one’s dues in fashion. Once upon a time, a designer worked for another house before branching out independently. That began to change in the early 2000s, at least in the US fashion industry, as labels were formed right out of design school. Many of those labels are long gone, and many young independent brand closings have recently swept the sector. Milan-based designer Daniel Del Core’s work might be described as modern and forward, but his path is firmly rooted in the traditional way. Five years after founding his namesake label Del Core, the designer celebrated his third store opening and first US location on Manhattan’s Madison Avenue and spoke to FashionNetwork.com about his trajectory that is quickly shooting upward.

On the third floor of the 7500-square-foot boutique, Del Core explained the strategy and goals for the 5-year-old brand, which launched just before the pandemic and continues the path he forged at various Italian luxury labels, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, and Gucci with a stint at Zuhair Murad in Lebanon.

“I only worked in Beirut for one season, but I learned so much as the atelier had in-house embroiderers. Then, I moved to Rome to work for Gucci, first under Frida (Giannini) for two years and then under Alessandro for five years. I was responsible for evening wear, special custom projects, and red carpet dressing,” Del Core explained.

This meant working closely with clients and celebrities, an approach that suited the designer.

“My last gig at Gucci was when they sponsored the Met Gala,” he continued. Fast forward to 2024, and Del Core had a dream-come-true moment when he dressed Mexican actress and beauty Eiza Gonzalez in his design—a light as a feather custom layered chiffon gown in shades of pink and peach that resembled an orchid. Other recent red-carpet moments include Demi Moore and Florence Pugh.

The brand’s strategy and store design emphasize one-on-one interaction with clients to create something unique. The top floor houses couture pieces and dresses in a futuristic space with a modern white sofa sitting area and walls covered in dark Avocatus quartzite.

Given his background, Del Core is most at home, working with clients directly on made-to-measure gowns. “I really like that to know the woman who is going to wear it,” he explained, adding, “I want to push the salon idea, and the Couture rooms are working well. There is an appetite for custom-made pieces that not everyone else has.” Thus, he plans to work directly with as many clients as possible on bespoke styles for as long as he can.

Del Core, though, is quick to point out that the brand strategy was to form a complete house. The designer also makes ready-to-wear, tailored styles, knits, and accessories. He plans to introduce simplified core styles to define the identity between Couture, Evening, and Ready-to-wear day styles.

He describes the Del Core woman as “sophisticated, chic and likes to wear colorful, playful clothes with a certain design; she has a personality when she enters a room, and wants to be seen, someone whose presence you feel.” Overall, his brand can be described as fusing nature motifs with architectural lines for a modern look with an organic touch. (Thus, it made sense that chef slash food stylist Wunderkind Woldy Reyes laid out a hors d’oeuvres spread in the store that blurred the line between food and art.)

On the mezzanine level of the store, overlooking the main floor, which currently houses the dress made for Gonzales, the designer meets one of his customers in an abstract print dress. The customer discovered the brand walking in London but lives in New York.
The mature and sophisticated cosmopolitan shopper he had when opening the two major cities (These followed an initial store in the tony seasonal shopping region of Porto Cervo, Sicily.)

“In the international strategy, we will hit the markets with the most success. In New York and London, there is a similar openness for new ideas and things; elsewhere, it’s more complicated,” the designer explained. “Right now, we will focus on these locations to establish our whole strategy, which takes time. The stores came quick, so next, we need to build the client list and relationships with the customers,” he said

The stores in New York and London are similarly designed by Del Core himself. “I like the idea of consistency when it comes to ambiance and being recognized as a brand, which is not so simple today. It’s nice for customers to experience our whole world, so we push the creativity forward,” he added.

Working with musicians is another outlet for him to push his creativity forward with artists such as Bjork, Florence Pugh, and Demi Moore. “I love working with musicians because you get to know them and their music better and how they express themselves; clothes can be a part of that. Bjork is a conceptual way of dressing; Florence is specific, but you can have fun in that space,” he said, adding, “The fun part is every musician has a specific way of performing, so the clothes have to perform.”

Special projects like these require hands-on involvement, something the designer relishes. He studied art, fashion, and film. “I’m extremely curious and read a lot, and I like to be busy,” he admitted.

It’s a good quality to have a young designer establishing a house. Beyond the US, the house will focus on the Middle Eastern market, where customers often live and shop in London.

Del Core is doing it enviably and strategically with investment and a business team. Not many designer brands are launching with a full-scale house in place; he represents a unique space with a new brand fully funded and planned from the get-go, though not without its challenges. “We started fast; now it’s time to keep it running; it’s not easy for a new brand to establish itself right now,” he said, speaking from the heart, as the name suggests, naturally.