Translated by
Roberta HERRERA
Published
Sep 9, 2024
During the 12-day Paralympic Games hosted in Paris, the global spotlight was cast on the extraordinary feats of 4,400 athletes from across the globe, showcased both in stadiums and through television broadcasts. This momentous event also served as a critical platform for advocating the expansion of sports for individuals with disabilities, spanning from recreational activities to competitive arenas, which is often curtailed by a scarcity of resources, adequate coaching, accessibility, and especially suitable equipment and attire. It is estimated that one billion people worldwide live with a disability, including nearly 100 million in Europe and over four million in France alone. According to a report by the French Ministry of Sports in 2023, 70% of these individuals express an interest in sports, yet fewer than half (47%) participate in regular physical activities. Within the fashion industry, certain brands have gradually initiated efforts to address these needs, aiming to authentically incorporate inclusivity into their ethos. This focus sheds light on the efforts of Decathlon, Salomon, and Zalando to cater comprehensively to all consumers.
Salomon’s initiative to accommodate the needs of people with disabilities emerged somewhat “by accident” during the COVID-19 pandemic, as recounted by Patrick Leick, footwear project manager and head of the ‘para-team’ for the Annecy-based brand. “It was during a period when my workload was lighter, and we received a proposal from students at IMT Mines Albi who had been tasked by Airbus to develop a prosthetic using carbon fiber scraps. We collaborated on the outer sole to facilitate trail running.” This led the involved students to establish Hopper in 2021, a venture aimed at commercializing their running blade. Salomon continues to support the project but does not directly sell the product. “Prosthetics are medical equipment that requires specific certification. Everyone should focus on their expertise in this regard.”
Nevertheless, the outdoor brand has since broadened its research and established partnerships with athletes previously not targeted. Last year, Salomon ventured into winter sports, another core area of their expertise, by developing a snowboard blade and a ski prosthetic aimed at equipping competitors for the 2026 Milan-Cortina Winter Paralympics.
Decathlon’s Italian inspiration for accessible sports gear
Decathlon’s journey towards more accessible sports equipment began in Italy, driven by a democratization ethos. The initiative commenced in 2016 when a complaint from a Milanese customer about the lack of available adaptive equipment prompted a new focus within Decathlon’s Italian subsidiary. By 2018, the first products designed for disabled athletes were available in Italy, and by 2022 the offering had expanded to encompass all European markets.
The range now includes five adjustable wheelchairs designed for various sports—athletics, basketball, fencing, cycling, and tennis—catering to amputees, paraplegics, and quadriplegics, as well as adaptive accessories and clothing suitable for the winter season. A total of 50 different products are now distributed through Decathlon’s website, with additional availability in selected store corners.
“Since the Tokyo Paralympics, and with an eye towards Paris 2024, we’ve had athletes competing in Olympic events using our wheelchairs, notably in wheelchair fencing with Italian Edoardo Giordan,” highlighted Luigi Cordioli, director of Decathlon Adapted Sports.
Amplifying paralympic communications and community engagement
This year, Decathlon France established a team of 33 athletes for the Olympic and Paralympic Games, including eight para-athletes, such as flag bearer Nantenin Keita. A documentary showcasing their journeys has been filmed to spotlight their achievements. Effective communication is vital in the world of Paralympic and adaptive sports to attract new participants and shift public perceptions.
Meanwhile, Salomon constructed a ‘para-team’ in 2023, currently comprising seven members with plans for expansion. This team was prominently featured at Salomon’s ‘Adaptive Night’ held on September 6 at their Champs-Elysées store in Paris. “Our role is to demonstrate that amputees can participate in a wide range of activities and lead nearly normal lives. Yes, there is a disability, but there are also solutions. It’s crucial to have role models who are visible,” emphasized Patrick Leick. The objective is twofold: to assist individuals in reintegrating into society and to transform societal attitudes towards disability.
Reducing costs in adaptive sports equipment
The costs associated with prosthetics and adaptive sports equipment, such as wheelchairs, represent substantial investments, often with minimal reimbursement from health insurance, depending on the policy. Salomon aims to reduce costs in a market where, according to Patrick Leick, some players do not hesitate to secure substantial profits.
“We provide Hopper with the sole at a cost of 20 euros, excluding the research and development expenses. However, we still retain a margin. The aim is to demonstrate the viability of the project to ensure its sustainability, even though these are small quantities and we are not driven by business motives,” he elaborated, noting that Hopper sells the prosthetic for around 2,000 euros, whereas the market price is generally closer to 5,000 euros.
Decathlon’s sports wheelchairs are priced between 2,000 and 2,900 euros, roughly 30% less expensive than the market average, as emphasized by the brand with 1,700 stores. Prices can climb to over 6,000 euros among specialized vendors.
Regarding adapted clothing, Luigi Cordioli explained the price differential from standard products due to their unique technical features. “There are numerous zippers that allow different ways to open the clothing, and the cuts are also distinct to facilitate dressing. For example, the pants have a higher back waist than the front to ensure better coverage, even in a seated position,” he detailed.
Decathlon innovates with quick-on shoes for the disabled
Luigi Cordioli, at the helm of product innovation at Decathlon, asserts that the most stimulating and inspiring challenge is to genuinely understand and address the needs of individuals with disabilities within product design. Decathlon is poised to introduce a groundbreaking shoe that can be put on with a single hand in just five seconds. “This breakthrough was achieved following an extensive year-long study involving the scanning of over 250 feet of wheelchair users,” Cordioli explained.
The adaptive gear market is often perceived by traditional entities in the fashion and sports industries as a niche with limited profitability due to the substantial time and resources required for development. However, Cordioli is optimistic about its financial viability. “Current data reassure us that a socially impactful initiative can yield a significant economic return. The market for paralympic sports is continuously expanding and is set to increase substantially in the foreseeable future. Currently, Decathlon is experiencing robust growth, with revenue doubling yearly,” he noted, highlighting a 53% surge in wheelchair sales in the first half of 2024 compared to the previous year.
The quest for a universally appealing product
The ambition extends beyond merely providing specialized items for those with disabilities. The goal is to adapt Decathlon’s existing mainstream offerings to be more accessible to para-athletes. This autumn, Decathlon proudly introduces its ‘Universal Tracksuit,’ which features a unisex design enhanced with embroidery and streetwear elements, engineered specifically for ease of wear and removal. This innovation is thanks to strategically placed zippers and Velcro at the ankles and wrists. Developed from insights gained during a roundtable with Paralympic athletes sponsored by Decathlon, the tracksuit is available in two designs: a sky-blue version by Marseille street artist Crapule 2000 and a black edition by Ile-de-France fitness coach Hiitcho. Available exclusively online, the jacket is priced at 50 euros and the pants at 45 euros.
In terms of marketing, the campaign is inclusively designed, featuring images of individuals both with and without disabilities. The objective is to position this product as a timeless staple in varied colors. “If it satisfies the genuine needs identified together with our teams, partners, and Paralympic athletes, its design is crafted to appeal to the widest audience possible, thereby presenting an accessible and inclusive option,” stated Lucien Dubreuil, head of communications at Decathlon, part of the Mulliez family conglomerate.
At Salomon, the design team is actively working on adapting existing products to better serve athletes with specific needs. One such initiative involves modifying a lightweight trail running jacket to accommodate athletes without arms. “The realization that we needed to adjust our designs came when we observed one of our athletes struggling with a flapping sleeve during a race,” said Patrick Leick.
Zalando nurtures emerging designers
Addressing a significant gap in the apparel market, ready-to-wear specialists have also embraced this challenge. A year after launching its initial range of everyday apparel for customers with disabilities, online retailer Zalando has released a collection specifically tailored for sports. This collection includes 14 items from its private labels, featuring easy closures, sensory reductions, and designs accommodating prosthetics. The e-shop also promotes other brands with adaptive offerings, such as Tommy Hilfiger Adaptive and Nike.
For the past three years, Zalando has collaborated with the ‘Berlin Fashion Hub’ to organize a competition aimed at fostering young European designers, 10 of whom will bring their adaptive fashion concepts to life this year. Their creations will be showcased during the Berlin Fashion Week in February 2025.
In France, noteworthy initiatives include the family-owned chain Kiabi, which has been offering its ‘so easy’ apparel line since 2017, featuring items that are simple to wear and included products branded for Paris 2024 this summer. Additionally, the men’s brand Jules and the denim label 1083 have made significant contributions; the latter recently introduced its first jeans designed for people with reduced mobility. Termed the ‘mobile jean,’ this product is crafted in France with 1.4% elastane and retails for 129 euros. It is designed with longer leg lengths, no back pockets to reduce irritation, and a wrap-around waistband for enhanced comfort.
Looking forward, Decathlon aims to broaden its range of adaptive clothing with a new summer collection to be launched soon for men, women, and children. The company is also committed to reducing the adjustment time for wheelchairs—currently estimated at 15 minutes—to no more than five minutes, and to further lower the retail price. Salomon, sharing a similar vision, hopes its para-sport project will have a lasting impact.
Leick’s future endeavors will focus on children with disabilities, who often face barriers to participating in sports, and on addressing ‘invisible disabilities’ such as autism, visual impairments, or hearing impairments. His goal is to tailor products to meet these diverse needs and to inspire more members of the sports and fashion sectors to follow suit, paving the way for true democratization of the industry.
Copyright © 2024 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
Like the Beatles before them, a slew of British brands are taking the US by storm with their whimsical dresses and cosy knitwear.The Guardian’s journalism is