Published
October 23, 2024
The Lyst Index for Q3 sees Miu Miu back in top spot, overtaking Loewe as the hottest brand for the three months to September, with the search engine saying that as “global demand for Miu Miu’s distinctive alt-girl aesthetic continues to accelerate, searches jumped 30% quarter on quarter”.
Miu Miu has had a strong run in recent years and has been in number one position more than once. And the Prada Group as a whole has also been on a roll with Prada itself a frequent resident in the top 3. This time it remains in third place, the same position as Q2’s Index.
Loewe, although no longer at the very top, was in second place this time, cementing its place as one the world’s hottest brands. And Saint Laurent stayed at number four.
Meanwhile Alaïa jumped an astonishing 12 place to number 5, underlining the appeal of Pieter Mulier’s blend of the label’s heritage with new ideas. Lyst said that “desire for Alaïa is deepening; demand rose 51% this quarter, with customers responding to the sensuality and meticulous craftsmanship of Mulier’s collections”.
Jacquemus (+1), Gucci (+2), The Row (+7) and Valentino (+1) all moved up within the top 100 and Ralph Lauren in 14th place, Toteme at 16, Victoria Beckham at 19 and Chloé at 20 were all newcomers to the top 20.
Ralph Lauren joined as engagement spiked 151%. “A key player in the ‘Summer of Sport,’ high-profile activations at the Olympics and Wimbledon garnered worldwide attention and helped the brand capture the global trend for status sportswear,” Lyst explained.
Demand for Toteme rose 51% in its 10th anniversary year, with the label continuing to build momentum, via its first show at New York Fashion Week and opening a second store in New York.
And Chloé’s first-time appearance in the Index came as demand rose 21%. “Under the creative direction of Chemena Kamali, the Chloé boho revival is gaining traction and driving a halo effect on demand for boho-related products (searches including the term ‘boho’ are up 82% this quarter),” Lyst said.
Also in the top 20 were Bottega Veneta at 6 but down one place; Versace at 11 and down five spots; Skims hanging on at 12; Moncler down four at 13; Coach up five at 15; Balenciaga still not recovered and down 10 at 17; and Louis Vuitton down three at 18.
It’s interesting that previous top 20 stalwarts Dior and Burberry weren’t on the list this time.
Fast-moving brands and hot products
Each quarter’s Index also includes three ‘Moving Fast Brands’ and this time they included NN.07. As worn by Chef Carmy Berzatto in The Bear, the viral NN0.07 Gael jacket sold out immediately after its September restock. Searches for the Copenhagen-based menswear label soared 142% this quarter.
Stone Island was also strong. Its campaign fronted by Liam Gallagher, was expertly timed to capitalise on excitement around the Oasis reunion. Demand for the brand rose 28%, driven by demand for the compass patch logo jackets.
And the third fast-moving brand was Entire Studios, founded by two friends and former Yeezy protégés, which had an eventful quarter with the debut of a new eyewear collection and an expansion into leather and knitwear for its ‘Drop 8′ launch in August. Dresses, tops and hooded down jackets drove demand for the brand, which surged 52% in the quarter.
Clearly, there’s a big focus on luxury throughout but the results this time did prompt Lyst to ask: “Is luxury losing its chokehold on The Lyst Index?” That’s not to say the mass-market is making its presence felt too strongly but this quarter’s brand and product lists reflect rising demand for premium and contemporary brands plus a few mass appeal brands, such as Ganni, Puma, Longchamp, Coach, The Frankie Shop, Clarks and Toteme.
As for the hottest products, further underlining its appeal, Alaïa’s fishnet ballet flat was the quarter’s most in-demand product. Over a year since they first appeared in the ranking, searches increased a further 8%.
Coach’s Brooklyn suede shoulder bag took second position. After Bella Hadid was spotted with it in August, searches spiked 263% while suede bag searches increased 175%. Miu Miu’s Arcadie suede bag was the quarter’s fourth hottest product, with demand soaring 588% in the quarter.
Puma’s Speedcat was in third position, “emerging as the sneaker of the summer”. Spotted on Dua Lipa, Emily Ratajkowski and Troye Sivan, demand spiked 523% in August, continuing the trend for streamlined retro silhouettes.
In fifth spot was Toteme’s country jacket. Barn jackets were a key transitional trend across mens and womenswear in the season, with searches for this style up 225% this quarter.
Clarks has been putting plenty of support behind its heritage styles and its Original Wallabee claimed ninth position. “Driven by demand from Gen Z shoppers, this classic style – popular for over five decades – remains a summer wardrobe staple, with demand increasing 32% this quarter,” Lyst said.
Other products in the top 10 include the aforementioned Miu Miu Arcadie bag, Ganni’s mid-shaft Biker Boot, Tom Ford’s Bronson shades, Longchamp’s Le Pliage Neo XS, and The Frankie Shop’s pleated Piper pants.
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Like the Beatles before them, a slew of British brands are taking the US by storm with their whimsical dresses and cosy knitwear.The Guardian’s journalism is