LONDON – The British Fashion Council has secured fresh funds from the U.K. Government to help designers succeed in a challenging trading environment.
The BFC’s CEO Caroline Rush said the Government’s department for Culture, Media and Sport, which backs the BFC Newgen program, has committed an additional 1 million pounds in funding for the next year.
Rush said the fresh funding will go towards securing a show venue for the BFC Newgen designers, cover presentation costs, and business mentoring for designers for the emerging talents.
“The British fashion scene is undeniably tough. But having worked for years with designers, retailers, partners, and the creative community at large, I can think of no better group to navigate the challenges we are facing in the U.K. and the global challenges for our industry at large,” said Rush.
Rush also wants to the Government “to work with us to increase access to finance to help our designers and brands deliver on their growth promise.” She is also campaigning for the restoration of tax-free shopping, “which would immediately breathe confidence into the industry. That, in turn, will have a positive impact on our designer fashion community.”
The U.K. terminated the tax-free shopping program after Brexit, and has so far refused to reinstate it because the Government needs the money. Rush is one of many industry figures, retailers and brand-owners who have been pleading with Government to reverse the policy, to no avail.
The latest funding announcement coincided with the release of the final London Fashion Week schedule for fall 2025. The showcase will run from Feb. 20-24 and is a day shorter than usual.
New additions to the definitive schedule include Ashish, Maison Sara Chraïbi and Maison Artc.
As reported, the showcase will kick off with Harris Reed on Thursday night. The following days will see shows from emerging and established British brands, including Burberry, Erdem, Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn, and Edeline Lee.
Young designers showing under the BFC Newgen banner include Paolo Carzana, Ancuța Sarca, Charlie Constantinou, Chet Lo, Di Petsa, Johanna Parv, Kazna Asker, Lueder, Pauline Dujancourt, Sinéad O’Dwyer, Kazna Asker and Yaku.
Several key names are absent from the schedule due to a variety of reasons. Those choosing not to show in London include JW Anderson, Nensi Dojaka, S.S. Daley, Chopova Lowena, Yuhan Wang, and Knwls.
Due to a tough retail climate, many brands have chosen to stage one runway show a year to ease cash flow pressures.
Rush said she understands that with so many obstacles at play, designers need to be dynamic and strategic in their choices on how, when, and where to focus their budget and present their collections.
“It is no secret that it is a challenging environment. The cost of doing business due to the impact of leaving the European Union, and challenges around access to finance and payment terms, have put additional pressure on designers,” she added.
Rush said the BFC is in constant conversation with designers to understand better how they are addressing these challenges.
She added that digital showcases, events and physical presentations are less-costly formats that the BFC is happy to promote at a time when money is tight.
“It is important that we support designers in making the right choices for them and that we continue to provide options for showcasing and connecting with the U.K. and international media and retailers, while thinking about opportunities for businesses to diversify revenue streams,” said Rush.
In another bid to promote the young talents, the BFC is introducing a showcase on the last day of London Fashion Week, at 180 Strand in London, for designers supported by the BFC Newgen program to speak to international media and buyers.
The BFC has also been playing matchmaker behind the scenes to connect designers with potential partners and venues.
For example, LFW’s principal partner 1664 Blanc last year supported designers including Aaron Esh, Charles Jeffrey, and Tolu Coker. The drinks brand will continue to work with the BFC to nurture the London creative community.
The BFC has also been beefing up its international guest program in order to strengthen the impact of LFW for designers who show on-schedule. It is using funding from the Department for Business and Trade and additional money from Britain’s GREAT Campaign.
“We are focusing on welcoming guests from key markets to London Fashion Week who have significant spending power, and have secured an incredible lineup of international buyers and press who will be in town across the week,” said Rush.
The BFC will also continue to host a showroom for emerging brands to meet buyers during Paris Fashion Week, which runs from Mar. 6-11 at 2b Rue Saint-Sauveur.
“Our role at the BFC is to ensure that the platform meets the needs of the designers. In the 15 years I have been CEO of the BFC [their needs] have not stayed the same,” said Rush
“By nature, we change. The system will evolve but the role of [London Fashion Week] remains as a critical platform for brands to increase their brand awareness, secure sales, and for us to convene the industry, and support creativity and design,” she added.
As reported, Laura Weir, currently executive creative director at Selfridges, will succeed Rush as CEO of the BFC on April 28. Rush announced her planned departure last December.
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