When you think of Greece, you probably think of beautiful beaches, endless sunshine, and the warm Mediterranean Sea. But far less explored is the stunning mountainous region dubbed the ‘Switzerland of Greece’ by many, including local publication GreekReporter.

Agrafa, hidden away in the centre of the country, boasts stunning mountains and quaint villages, along with monasteries built into rock, and views that will send your Instagram followers into meltdown. Three rivers – the Acheloos, the Agrafiotis, and the Megdovas – wind through the region, cutting through rocky mountains covered with an endless blanket of fir forests. You could be forgiven for thinking you were in the heart of Bavaria.

Lacking any major towns or cities, the region has a population of just 11,000, scattered across small villages clinging to the sides of the mountains. Although tourism is an important part of the local economy, you won’t see anything like the crowds you’ll meet in some other areas of Greece.

The name Agrafa literally means “unwritten” in Greek, named for its remoteness and challenging terrain, meaning it was too difficult to record on the world’s first maps. It was even one of the few areas of Greece not to fall under the rule of the Ottoman Empire, with invaders wiped out by a band of just 800 Greek warriors in 1823.

Although the region was occupied during World War 2, Agrafa was also the first place in Greece to liberate itself from the Nazis, with rebels driving back Hitler’s army in August 1943. The people of Agrafa remain fiercely proud of their heritage, hardened by the unforgiving landscape and the region’s history of rebellion and resistance – but welcome visitors with open arms, keen to share the wonders on their doorsteps.

The highest peak is Tymfristos, which reaches 2,315m above sea level. The roads require careful navigation, winding through the mountains and along the edges of deep gorges, and it’s far from uncommon to turn a sharp bend with no idea what waits on the other side.

No trip to rural Greece would be complete without a visit to a monastery, and Agrafa boasts many hidden away in forests and on mountainsides, where visitors can experience a very different pace of life. In the last century, many people born in the region left to seek jobs in major cities elsewhere in Greece and Europe, with a large community from Agrafa still found today in Charlotte, North Carolina.

The region’s economy relies heavily on timber sales and farming, with the construction of the Plastiras Dam in the 1950s creating many jobs for local people. The project was the brainchild of Nikolaos Plastiras, who served as prime minister of Greece between November 1951 and October the following year, and was himself from Agrafa.

How do I get to Agrafa?

The nearest airport is Preveza International Airport, where transport can be arranged for the 91-mile journey to the region. Flights are available from most major UK airports.

If you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, you can take on the 32-hour, 1,800-mile journey by train via the Eurotunnel, passing through France and Italy, before catching a bus from Milan to Lushnjë in Albania, and then another to Kardítsa in Greece. Be warned these bus services only operate between one and two days a week. Once reaching Karditsa you will need to arrange a taxi or a car for the final 40-mile stretch of the journey.

Anyone choosing to drive will face a 28-hour journey, passing through France, Belgium, Germany, Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, and North Macedonia, before passing into Greece.